A little cluster of my favorite poetry—even a short story by John Updike—is all about supermarkets. Allen Ginsburg may have started it with his poem about wandering the aisles and finding Walt Whitman. Randall Jarrell followed suit with a wistful and poignant self-portrait of a 1950s woman—forty-ish, probably—ruminating about loss and anonymity. John Updike’s short story “A & P,” comes from the perspective of the bag boy—a chivalrous wannabe in a fluorescent non-wilderness, tilting at the middle class manager instead of a windmill. Peter Meinke, a contemporary Florida poet, picks up there, ruminating that “My supermarket is bigger than your supermarket. / That’s what America is all about.”
Even Melanie (whom no one under forty-five has ever heard of) sings about supermarkets:
“Take the children to school, and you go to the grocery store. You pass as a grown-up . . . “
So even an aging, hippie-style rock singer, sees grocery shopping as the purview of middling: middle class, middle age, mediocrity.
In sum, the supermarket emerges as an icon of America—possibly America at its most generic and boring.
But here’s the thing for me: I love the grocery store. If I were T.S. Eliot, I might write: “At the supermarket, there I feel happy.” For fifty years I’ve passed through the automatic doors to push or help push a chromed metal basket up and down the aisles that prove we are a land of plenty. There are no secret corners in the average grocery store. Light pours from above and exhibits every can and every cellophane package, every freezer case and every squared off cereal box. The tomatoes glow, the peppers shine, the oranges reveal their leather peels. There is a peace that comes in knowing where one’s next meal comes from—and that when that meal ends, more awaits.
For me as for many women, the weekly (or more frequent) trip to the grocery reaffirms something gendered. Of course, sometimes an inner rebel curses the necessity and the obligation. Why should it be a woman thing? And, in fact, these days, it’s not so much. That’s the thing: everyone is there. One sees couples, whole families, young men—sometimes in pairs—prowling through the soda aisles and stacking their pizza boxes, young women searching for vegan ramen or shuttling their toddlers past the Captain Crunch. It’s a watering hole, a gathering place. Though privately owned, it truly belongs to its customers, much more than other retailers where we go from time to time and buy something different every time. At the grocery we buy the same things again and again. We lay claim to our brands and our nutritional profiles.
I regard the local Publix as “mine.” Having shopped there for 25 years, I know every aisle. I notice the gradual shifts in product lines. I’m proud that there are more organics now and the baggers and cashiers seem to appreciate my canvas bags. I nosh my way through the sample carts when it’s lunch time. I help people find the condiments if they ask. Sometimes I make friends with strangers waiting at the deli for lunch meat. The pharmacist recognizes me, and I her. And checking out I always enjoy the cashier’s banter with the bagger, or congratulate myself on my friendliness to the occasional mentally challenged cashier.
It’s all lovely and personal without the stress of real relationship. If I meet a neighbor, it’s a treat, but we don’t have to tarry long or delve into details. We’re busy. The supermarket is an oasis of civility. Being alone in the crowd—usually regarded as a curse—is a blessing here. You’re all in it together, but you’re all going home and won’t have to deal with each other for long.
When I leave with my one hundred dollars of produce, chicken et cetera and packaged groceries, I’ve accomplished something, I’ve socialized, I’ve once more staked out my identity and I’ve proved the world to be still reliably ordinary, even as it offers the danger of new hot peppers, the mystery of persimmons or guava or strange and spindly fungi from far away. The small adventures proffered are optional only, the comfort of familiarity is the mainstay.
And, just think, next week you get to go again.